Every year, the city of Morioka, Iwate holds their grandest summer event: the Sansa Odori Festival (盛岡さんさ踊り). Known as the largest taiko drum festival in all of Japan, hundreds of groups spend weeks practicing. Somehow, having only been a resident of Morioka for 4 months now, I found myself in one of those hundreds of groups, dancing in the parade just two weeks ago.
This is what I thought about the immersive cultural experience.
How I joined the parade
For a relatively small city, Morioka has a large number of students and residents from abroad. At the community centre I regularly visit for Japanese conversation practice, I learned from their international exchange floor that they participate in the Sansa Festival under the group name 世界は友達 (sekai ha tomodachi, the world is our friend).
Seeing it as an opportunity to really connect with Japanese culture, I signed up immediately. I also made Honey join, but for good reason. Turns out, he has 6 years of experiencing playing flute for the university’s group!!
It was time to get our Sansa on.
Learning the dance
There are actually many variations of dance. Historically, Sansa was created by the townspeople to thank the gods who saved them from menacing demons hundreds of years ago. Over time, the dance has changed and continues to do so. But overall there are 4 official dances recognized by the Sansa committee.
Miss Sansa Odori (the best dancers) performing 七夕くずし
Our group performed the 七夕くずし (Tanabata kuzushi), which is also perfect for dancing in a circular pattern (more on this later). While most groups practiced twice or more each week, our group had 3 practices in total. It was a little worrying, as you might expect. However, many people also practiced on their own time (hopefully) to prepare. I learned my fair share from a video here.
Clothes make the ‘man’
Apart from the dance, there was also the matter of attire. Performers typically wear special group outfits, but because of our circumstances, we had to wear a yukata or ‘cultural attire’. I decided to go for the former and am proud to say that I was able to learn and wear it on my own, and even created a guide here.
Waifu in a yukata
Other than the kimono, every person also had to wear tabi socks and special sandals (red for females, white/black for males). These were the. most. terrible. sandals! I made sure to break them in by wearing them around the house (which amused Honey greatly) as well as at practice.
tabi and sandals of DOOM
San-Sa-Sa! The day has arrived.
The festivities were held from August 1st-4th, and our group was on for that Friday evening. Nervous, anxious, and excited, we had a little over an hour to wait as all of us gathered by the main street. One by one, groups were announced and began parading down the road.
Minutes passed. 6:45 pm. It was show time.
45 minutes of dance
With the heat/humidity and summer sun still shining, I felt like I was cloaked in sweat within the first 10 minutes.
There was the whole “don’t mess up, don’t mess up” alarm bells ringing in your head to the beat of the drums and melody of flute. Remembering to smile so you don’t scare the crowd with your look of stern concentration. Then, there was almost losing your voice shouting, “Hara-hara-harasse! …Sakkorachoiwayasse!” Then, making sure you’re equidistant to everyone around you, and keeping the pace even if others are slower or faster.
Did I mention that we paraded for 45 minutes?
The only consolation was that everyone else was exhausted, but happily powering through. And the exhilaration, followed by huge sigh of relief and accomplishment when you finish.
Over 900 groups performed in these four days, with powerhouse teams like Iwate University and its alum group. Here are some more shots from the last day:
Of course, a quick YouTube search for “Sansa Odori 2018” can paint you a better picture. Also, from the Sansa website itself.
Festivities continue after the festival
Once the last group finishes, the festival begins rearing to an end. However, that doesn’t mean the party stops there.
In fact, at the end of the parade line are a few decorative floats, which will settle down in the middle of Chuo-odori. Pedestrians begin to trickle towards them as drummers, flutists, and dancers of all groups also join in.
One person shouts, “せーの! (se-e-no)”, and like clockwork, the musicians play one of the four dances with people matching the tune with its corresponding dance number.
This was really the true meaning of Sansa. It was an almost magical experience as everyone laughed, danced, and sweated side-by-side in a circle. The Tanabata kuzashi dance is especially fitting, which is why I think our instructors chose it for our group. Exhausted as I was, even as raindrops began falling, I too couldn’t miss out on the fun.
The takeaway message
Long story short, the atmosphere as a mere onlooker versus a performer is completely different.
Was it kind of terrible? Yes. Would I do it again? Quite possibly, yes.
As cheesy as this may sound, when you have flocks of people lining the streets, a team of equally drained dancers beside you, and the steady beating of the drums echoing your every step, you find the determination to push through.
It was definitely an experience I won’t soon forget.
—
-Waifu ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Because I'm Waifu 