Not too long ago, Honey and I ventured eastward to the town of Iwaizumi (岩泉町), where one of Japan’s Three Great Limestone Caves lies in wait. Ryusendo (龍泉洞, Dragon Spring Cave), as told to us by word-of-mouth, is a must-see national monument with its striking underground lakes and 3000 meters of uncovered stretches. We decided to get a look for ourselves.
Back-to-school already?
It was hitting close to noon as we made our way towards Iwaizumi, so Honey and I stopped at a roadside station for some lunch, and a rather special one too.
Mitakaibunkou (三田貝分校) is an old elementary school turned michi no eki, with your usual gift shops, but a shokudou (食堂) mirroring a school cafeteria. As for the seating area? Clusters of actual school desks, which is sure to send you on a trip of nostalgia.
As for the food, they have a lot of options from ramen, udon, soba, and rice combinations. But best of all, just like a school cafeteria, they have a ‘meal of the day’, which not only looked good, but tasted great too.
While Honey gorged himself on this lunch set, I helped myself to a cold udon dish to beat the summer heat. It also came with a bowl of vegetable kakiage, a type of tempura.
With our stomachs satiated, we continued toward Ryusendo.
A treat for the public eye
Upon arriving at our destination, it was clear to us that the Dragon Spring Cave is a popular tourist destination with its gift shops, restaurant, museum, and ample parking space.
You know you’re in the right place when you cross the dragon bridge (so it was named) and come face-to-face with a statue of intertwined dragons. It was erected by a famous fashion designer in mention of Ryusendo being a “Lover’s Sanctuary”.
After some light research off their official website, I learned that not only does one portion of the cave walls mimic a heart shape, but there’s a story associated with its old visitor’s entrance. Off the rock face, there were two caves deemed “male” and “female”. Legend has it that when couples simultaneously threw a pebble into the opposite caves, they would find lasting love. Who knew?
For the average visitor, though, Ryusendo has been a real treat for the ages as hundreds flock there during festival seasons. Residents have been captivated by its lakes since before they installed actual walking platforms (i.e. they would go in by BOAT!), and Iwaizumi locals get to enjoy the cave water straight from the tap.
But let’s move onto the cave itself.
History in the making
If you know anything about caves, it should be that it takes years for them to become what they are today. From the stalactites, stalagmites, and pillars formed when they meet.
Ryusendo is illuminated by lights placed here and there. They allow visitors to fully enjoy the 700 of 3000 meters of publicly explorable space. All the while giving off an eerie yet enchanting atmosphere.
At the head of the entrance, you’ll spot a temperature reading for how cold it is inside versus outside. Let’s just say, although it was 30°C (86°F) outside, Honey and I both brought good jackets for the 30-40 minutes within the insulated cave walls.
As we walked through the place, I ran my hands along the walls. It was amazing how the natural rock erodes over time. Some walls were covered in smooth, crystallised lime but looked as if they were dripping down in masses. One wall was so aptly named as a ‘waterfall’.
Other parts of the cave were covered in rough edges and endless pockets overhead. Either that or stalactites made of clay mineral deposits and coral-like walls. It’s hard to tell in pictures, but the sight was impressive.
As you keep going, sounds of rushing water signal that you’re closing in on the three underground lakes open to the public.
And then, there’s stillness and silence. A single lamp reveals the clear spring below.
The third lake is approximately 98 meters deep, but expeditions within the last decade say that there are many more that may transcend this depth. It’s no wonder that the total estimate for the cave is over 5000 meters long.
After reaching this point, visitors make their way up a very steep incline to 38 meters above the water level, the highest point thus far. While climbing, you’re likely to spot a hidden wine cellar, which houses local Iwaizumi products.
And before I forget to mention, Ryusendo is also home to a variety of bats, which are likely snoozing the day away. But I did manage to spot one way up high, flapping from one crevice to another, likely jostled by all the visitors coming in and out.
Exploring beyond the cave
Back under the scorching Japan sun, Honey and I explored the area just around the entrance of the Dragon Spring Cave.
Adjacent is a small restaurant, where diners enjoyed many café-type meals and Iwaizumi wine.
Still full from the delicious lunch sets at the roadside station, we instead enjoyed one of my favourite sweet treats, soft cream.
They had a few to choose from, including plain vanilla and honey, but we decided on the yogurt flavour. To anyone who enjoys yogurt drinks, this soft cream is sure to please.
We took a seat on the outdoor patio, which overlooks a river stream. After finishing off this tasty cone, we headed down some steps to get a closer look.
With water as clear as that of Ryusendo caves, the stones emerging from the river were coated in luscious green moss. It was incredibly picturesque, so I couldn’t resist snapping a photo. I did resist wading over and touching it though.
Going back up the stairs and around the lower deck, there is a pathway for people to stroll riverside. But also, there was a little shack for people to rent out fishing materials, and test their skills in the fast-flowing waters.
We thought it was too much of a challenge at the time, until we happened upon a family whose father figure was reeling in his 6th fish.
So, we took a brief walk instead. Just across the way, hydrangeas were in full, colourful bloom.
If you’re one who appreciates natural works of art, but aren’t really into hiking or camping, then Ryusendo is the perfect destination.
Despite being a heavily travelled sightseeing spot, it and the surrounding area maintains its natural beauty and reminds us that there is so much left of the world to uncover.
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-Waifu ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Because I'm Waifu 